6 day guided climbing expedition to Mt Cook 3724m, New Zealand’s highest mountain. Mt Cook is a prized international summit and world class mountaineering objective with many climbers coming from all over the world to attempt the climb. Despite the modest altitude compared to many other mountains around the world, Mt Cook is a steep heavily glaciated mountain, technical climb, and a formidable challenge.
Climbing Mt Cook by the Linda Glacier requires previous mountaineering experience and a high level of fitness. The Mount Cook climb can be attempted by climbers with experience on New Zealand 3000m peaks or the overseas equivalent. A typical climbing day on Mt Cook is between 13 and 18 hours, with a vertical height gain of 1800m.
The typical climbing route is the Linda Glacier New Zealand alpine grade 3 but other route options are possible for more experienced clients including Zurbriggins Ridge, the East Ridge, and a Grand Traverse across Low Peak, Middle Peak, and High Peak.
Most clients will have completed a New Zealand Alpine Mountaineering Course or equivalent technical mountaineering course and have previous experience on other 3000m peaks to New Zealand alpine grade 2 before attempting the climb.
The 6 day trip is based from Plateau Hut at 2200m. The length of the trip allows enough time for access and egress from the mountains, skills training, possibly climbing a training peak, and weather contingency days.
Mt Cook is a very serious climb that should not be underestimated. Mt Cook is a heavily glaciated peak with objective danger that can only be managed safely when the conditions and weather are good on the mountain. The minimum length of a Mt Cook trip is 6 days, this gives us enough time to maximise the chance of success and pick safe weather & conditions on this expedition style mountain.
The Mt Cook season is normally from October through to early January. In a good year, the season may extend beyond mid January through to April. However, we recommend that clients book their Mt Cook climb before the early January because in recent seasons, the route on the lower Linda Glacier has become unsafe to pass after early January.
Why climb Mt Cook with Queenstown Mountain Guides? Queenstown Mountain Guides are Queenstown’s only professionally qualified IFMGA Mountain & Ski Guiding operation. We have years of experience working on Mt Cook and an impressive history of safety and successful guided ascents on the mountain.